Tuesday, December 15, 2015

The salty scent on the Hudson

It was an afternoon of tears. Alma choking back tears in the living room, for the millionth time, in front of the "Toy Story" and den I wiped my eyes to the "The Sturgeon Queens" ("Kingdom of sturgeon fish"), Her enchanting Julie Cohen, will be screened as part of the Jewish Film Festival will be held at the Jerusalem Cinematheque in -16-23 December. The film tells the story of four generations of the family of Ross, who for the past 100 years New York has Russ & Daughters your, famous delicatessen specializing in pickled and smoked fish.
"Somebody help me," grumbled Michael mine, "my mother crying movie on herring and sister, aged 18, was crying cartoon". I tried to say something about it inside the document in black and white pieces are also his ancestors who immigrated to America at the end of the 19th century, and my father, all his life, gave words of longing for the smoked salmon sold there. Thin slices of fish in Biala, a fresh bagel with poppy seeds and onions, but my Michael has been closed in his room, before concluding that he did not live with both crazy.
In 1881-1914, fleeing war, poverty and acts of pogrom, migrated more than 2 million Jews from Eastern Europe to the New World offered America. Most of them settled in New York, bringing with them reasons to remember the Homeland hurt, that would hurt even more.
Jewish immigrants brought to America the wagons with the sausages, the word delicatessen and the option to buy kosher food prepared. And they brought with them pickled and smoked fish, teach the West a lesson smoked salmon, makes the flesh of the fish worthy of the table of princes and kings.
Canned fish in the annals of Eastern European Jews have a place of honor. Jews fell in love with Dutch fishermen's development - preserving salt solution - solutions to the world under juicy herrings are dried salt, which has known well. Jews have recognized the capabilities inherent in the fish trade, the options given by the observance of eating fish for pennies, and adopted it in their kitchen, sanctification and just drinking partner, and where they went herring fish came to them.
Lower East Side of New York, where they lived for more than 550 thousand Jews, had first delicatessens and then reading out the entire A-mhiih to Israel and American Jewish shops full text of Eastern Europe, who specialize in the art of pickling meat and fish.
There, in 1914, Joel launched Bella Ross, a foreign couple smooshed on American soil, their store specializing in the sale of herring and smoked salmon and survived the toughest days of the Depression, then Joel Ross chose to sell the family home on the sale of the business, and success The changes in the area and was able to call her family in every generation, to combine progress with the preservation of the property, and was a New York institution.
The history of the deli, present a history of managing her family and those of New York City Embroidery Julie Cohen documentary, benefactor to concoct a story no hurry to push information to be discovered in one and to move between images in black and white and the shots that I could stimulate beneficial describe regulars, Some shopping around around since the 30s of the last century.
Those customers are used to announcers in the film, accompanied by voices videos and rare photos from the family album time kissed them yellow, photos of hand-cut smoked salmon and practiced so that it looks like a shawl Orange and mouth crying out for a bite unforgettable bagel bursting egg salad with smoked fish, or Pickled fish - the great desire of some numbers. Each interviewee and his taste: Supreme Court Justice Ruth Bader Ginsburg wrote "The New Yorker" Calvin Terylene and Mario Battley Italian chef who conquered the city in the last decade, and when he describes the caviar sold in the shop lips open by themselves, unable to imagine a sea foam above mingling with flavor depths deep.
Between subjects Ann slow, two of the three daughters of La Joel, that in 33 Set sign "Ross and his daughters" repay old world order in which only males sported Business male. The girls from the age of 11 worked with my father, and years passed and deli developing nation, and every generation of her descendants who continue to stand up on her, and mouth filled with urges both near and far so wistfully why there now and those who will never be.
"The kingdom of sturgeon fish" will be screened at the Jerusalem Cinematheque at 17:12, and will be immediately followed by a conversation between the ministers of local herring-ski queen filmmaker Julie Cohen. The film will be screened as part of the Dlikts, including film sessions, food and culture, journalism, Artistic Director Ronit Vered.
Salmon salad vegetable stock

All deli knows he'll make good use of leftovers, the edges of the merchandise sold. This recipe, courtesy of the "Ross and his daughters", uses the edges salmon, these fish remaining in the deployment.
• tablespoon olive oil
• tablespoon butter
• 2 medium leeks, diced
• medium carrot, diced
• 2 stalks celery, diced
• clove of garlic, crushed
• 1 large potato, peeled and cut into cubes 1 cm
• 2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme leaves
• 1/4 cup flour
• 1/4 cup dry white wine
• 2 cups vegetable stock
• 1 bay leaf
• 2 cups milk
• 1/4 kg diced edges of smoked salmon (residue)
• 1/4 cup heavy cream
• Coarse salt
• black pepper
• chopped chives garnish
Heat olive oil and butter in a heavy saucepan over medium heat. Add the leeks, carrots and celery and steam until vegetables are tender, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic, potato and thyme and steam for about 2 minutes, until the garlic smells (being careful not to burn the garlic).
Sprinkle the flour over the vegetables and mix well to form a dry roux. Add the wine, bay leaf axis and bring to a gentle boil. Cook until the potatoes are tender, 35-30 minutes. Stir in the milk and salmon and bring almost to the boil. Remove from heat and remove the bay leaf. Stir in the cream and season with salt and pepper and garnish with chopped chives.
Herring pickled apples and vinegar Jerez

As mentioned above, it would be a cherry-ski you meet on the stage of the Cinematheque Julie Cohen, a filmmaker. The recipe I shared based on a recipe I learned from it.

Materials (for 8 diners):
• 3 schmaltz herring fish, and emit clean bones
• 8 medium onions
• 3/4 cup sugar
• 1/3 cup olive oil
• 6 bay leaves
• tablespoon allspice
• 1 3/4 cups of vinegar Jerez
• 2/3 cup sunflower oil
• tablespoon honey
To serve:
• 3 sour apples
• The cup cream or yogurt
• 2 tablespoons honey
Peel and cross the onions and cut into thick strips. With your fingers, separate the scabs, continue over the sugar and continue to mix until all the fresh berries coated strip. Putting aside for half an hour, stirring occasionally. Drain the onion fluids. Heat the olive oil in a frying pan with allspice and bay leaves until they release their aroma and pour the onion strips filtered. Stir so that each bulb will be covered in hot oil.
Put the jar vinegar and honey, seal and shake until the honey dissolves. Add the sunflower oil, shake well until the sauce and pour bleach on onions. Cover and refrigerate for fluid to cool the pickling real encounter with the fish. Cut the slices of fish into slices. Arrange storage jar or glass bowl layers of onions, spices and pieces of fish. Cover liquids and if they are not sufficient to cover the added fat. The road is a minimum duration of 12 hours (the fish is kept in a jar occupied 10-14 days).
Before serving, drain the pickling liquid and remove the bay leaves and allspice. Peel the apples and cut into strips or cubes and add to the fish. Stir in the cream or yogurt with honey and stir. You can add celery or dill.
Matias chilli and pine nuts

A combination of Eastern Europe, the Middle East, where the pinch chilli and pine nuts fish swimming in a barrel.
Materials (L-8-10 diners):
• 8 pieces or schmaltz herring fillet herring soft
• 10 Allspice
• Corn oil
To serve:
• 3 branches of finely chopped green onions
• cup sour cream
• 1 fresh red pepper, spicy, free of seeds and finely sliced
• 1/2 cup pine nuts
Soak the fillets of the fish in ice water for three hours, during which replaces water and ice at least four times. Remove the fish from the water and dry with a kitchen towel or paper towels thick and strong. Clean the leftover fish bones and cut into pieces about 2 cm in size. Arrange in a glass jar, add the allspice and pour oil. Refrigerate for about ten hours.
Roast the pine nuts in a dry skillet until lightly golden. Cool. With a slotted spoon remove the fish and divide settling individual serving. Place over a spoonful of sour cream and sprinkle a generous amount of onion, a teaspoon of toasted pine nuts and a few slices of hot pepper. Serve immediately. It's delicious.
Soft pickled herring oil and mustard seeds

My Heart Belongs To Lmtias, the young virgin, this soft little body. Years I cook it the same way and probably already gave you this recipe at one time or another. All power is soft fish and the work of soaking it goes.
Materials (L-4-6 diners):
• 6 fillets of herring or schmaltz herring soft
• 3 medium onions, sliced ​​millimeter-thick slices
• 4 bay leaves
• 7 Allspice
• 10 Mustard
• 10 grains of red pepper (pepper grows on trees or expensive spice stores)
• Corn oil
• tablespoon red wine vinegar
Soak the fillets of the fish in ice water for three hours, during which replaces water and ice at least four times. Remove the fish from the water and dry with a kitchen towel or paper towels thick and strong. Clean the fish scraps of bones and cut into pieces the size of about 2 cm. Arrange in a glass jar layer of onions with bay leaves, vinegar and a few grains of pepper and mustard. Overhead Arrange a layer of fish fillets, cover with oil and repeat the action. Sign generously with onions and peppers. Cover tightly with oil, close the jar well and place in refrigerator. tastiest ten hours later.

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